a tavola - the cuisine of Lombardy
(return to food)
One thing that becomes obvious traveling through the hills and valleys of
Lombardy, a quiet landscape as often enshrouded in fog, is that
rice competes with pasta for first place on the table, and often wins: it
is our comfort food; we love to eat risotto! (See Alice's Risotto Primer)
It is cooked with tender spring asparagus or sweet water shrimp, tinted
gold by saffron, perfumed by rosemary or sage. A chillier region in the
very North of Italy, Lombardy relies on butter rather than olive oil, and
cream is frequently on hand to make rich, sumptuous sauces. There are
tortelli di zucca, squash-filled tortelli, and Brescia's casônsei, ravioli
filled with sausages, potatoes, Swiss chard, and herbs. Pasta made of
buckwheat flour - pizzoccheri, one of Valtellina's specialties - is layered
with cabbage, potatoes, and cheese.
Summertime in Lombardy often brings vitello tonnato, a cold dish of poached
veal served under a delicately flavorful sauce of canned tuna, mayonnaise,
and capers. The cooler months command dishes like costolette alla milanese,
breaded and fried veal chops, or bollito misto, various cuts of beef, pork,
and veal boiled together in a rich broth. Milan's càsoeûla, a stew of pig
trotters, sausage, and cabbage, is hearty fare, typically accompanied by
steaming hot polenta. And polenta is made not only of cornmeal but of
buckwheat flour, as in polenta taragna, streaked with melting bits of
cheese. Desserts abound: there is Pavia's colomba pasquale, a confection
that has become a symbol of Easter throughout the world; pan dei morti, the
bread of the dead, cooked on November 2; and countless crumbly, buttery, or
crisp cookies, of which Amaretti di Saronno, addictive almond macaroons,
are the most famous.
ANTIPASTO - APPETIZER
Antipasto in Lombarday is often displayed on one large table in
restaurants. There are many dishes which are beautifully decorated and
make you hungry just to look at them.
Antipasto consists of meat and vegetable dishes. The most common meat in
Lombardy is prosciutto cotto - cooked ham and prosciutto crudo - uncooked
but air dried ham. Bresaola is a favorite - it is cured beef served in
thin slices with fresh lemon juice.
Insalata Russa - Russian Salad
2 large potatoes
2 carrots
160 gr of green beans
150 gr of fresh shelled peas
salt
4 eggs
4 or 5 small cucumbers
about 10 mushrooms in oil
10 tiny onions in vinegar
a handful of capers
oil
the juice of one lemon
2 or 3 green olives (without nuts)
Insalata Russa is one of the most typical cold antipasti. It is prepared
without any difficulty and, to save time, you can use the frozen mixed
vegetables. In this recipe, we use fresh vegetables because they seem to
give better results.
Peel the potatoes and wash them; cut them first into large slices , then
into match sticks and finally, into tiny cubes. Peel the carrot and cut in
half, then divide each half into match sticks and then into tiny cubes.
Remove the ends of the green beans and cut them into small pieces. For the
peas, you can use either the fresh or the frozen ones, even the canned
ones but they will not need cooking. Cook each vegetable separately in
salted water. The potatoes should be immersed in cold water which warms up
slowly while the other vegetables can be put together in a large pan. In
the meantime, boil 2 of the eggs by plunging them into boiling water for
about 10 minutes. As soon as they are ready, remove them from the pan and
plunge them into cold running water. Then prepare the vegetables in
vinegar. Cut the cucumbers into half rounds. Do not cut the smallest
vegetables, capers and mushrooms- unless some of them are larger.
Put all the vegetables (except the olives) together and mix in a tiny bit
of oil.
Prepare the mayonnaise (of course, also in this case you can use the
prepared kind but the result will not be the same). Break the uncooked
eggs, gather only the yolks in a small bowl (the whites can be used for
something else); add a pinch of salt, a few drops of lemon juice and begin
to stir the sauce with an electric beater or with a wooden spoon. Or, if
you prefer, with a food processor. As you work, add oil a drop at a time
until you have obtained a bowl of sauce. At the end, ad more lemon juice.
Put two or three teaspoons of mayonnaise on the vegetables and mix well
then transfer the salad onto an oval serving plate so that it covers the
whole surface of the plate. Cover the whole surface with the mayonnaise
using a plastic scraper. Decorate with pieces of boiled eggs and green
olives and serve.
Ricotta ovina con primizie dell'orto Ovine ricotta with fresh vegetables of
the season
11 oz./1 1/4 cup /300 gr fresh ovine ricotta
2 tbsp fresh broad beans-shelled
2 tbsp tender peas sweet and shelled
1 1/2 oz./40 gr fresh baby spinach leaves
1 peeled and finely diced tomato
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt
If unavailable substitute the ovine ricotta with a 50/50 mixture of fresh
sheep or goat cheese and cow milk ricotta or cottage cheese.
Put the ricotta into a bowl with a pinch of salt and 1 tbsp of extra virgin
olive oil and mix. Add the broad beans and the peas and stir in. Decorate
the plates with raw baby spinach leaves and sprinkle with very little
salt. Spoon out the ricotta mixture to form small balls and place them on
the spinach bed. Sprinkle with the diced tomatoes and a drizzle of the
remaining olive oil.
PRIMI PIATTI - FIRST COURSES
MINESTRE - SOUPS
Minestrone alla Milanese (Milano)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 cup finely chopped leek, white and light green parts
1 cup finely chopped celery
2 cups finely chopped carrots
2 cups finely chopped cabbage (preferably Savoy)
1 cup green beans cut into 1/2-inch lengths
2 cups of 1/2-inch cubes of peeled boiling potatoes
1/2 cup finely chopped prosciutto (optional)
1 cup of 1/2-inch cubes of unpeeled zucchini
1 cup chopped rinsed fresh stemmed spinach
2/3 cup chopped fresh or canned tomatoes
1/2 cup tomato sauce
6 cups chicken broth
3/4 cup rice (preferably short grain Arborio)
2 cups cooked dried (or canned) cannelini beans
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Parmesan for garnish, optional
In a large stock or soup pot, over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the
onion, leek, celery, carrots, cabbage, green beans and potatoes and stir
for 2 minutes.
Add the prosciutto (optional), zucchini, spinach, tomatoes and tomato sauce
and stir for another 2 minutes.
Add the chicken broth, bring to a boil and simmer, covered, over low heat
for 15 minutes.
Add the rice and beans, and simmer, uncovered for 15 minutes or until the
rice is tender. Remove the soup from the heat.
In a small skillet sauté the rosemary in the olive oil for 30 seconds. Add
this to the soup along with the parsley and cheese. Season with salt and
pepper to taste and serve immediately. Garnish with more cheese if desired.
Serves 8
Zuppa Pavese - Egg and Bread Soup (Pavia)
4 large ( 2" thick) slices , crusty country bread
4 Tbs. butter
8 eggs at room temperature
4 Tbs. grated Parmigiano
1 qt. beef broth
Fry the slices of bread in butter on both sides. Put the bread in soup
bowls. Break one egg on top of each of the bread slices without breaking
the yolk. Cover with plenty of Parmesan cheese. Bring the broth to a boil
and pour it slowly over the eggs into the soup bowl. The eggs will cook
quickly. Serve immediately.
Variation: Fry the eggs sunny side up in butter before placing them on the
bread slices, then cover with hot broth
PASTA
Pizzocheri - Buckwheat Noodles with Three Cheeses (Valtelina)
3 ounces Parmesan cheese , cut into 1-inch [2.5cm] pieces
6 ounces Gruyere cheese cut into 1 -inch [2. 5cm] pieces
4 ounces fontina cheese cut into 1-inch [2.5cm] pieces
1 medium garlic clove peeled
1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves
4 quarts water
1 pound spinach, stems trimmed, washed
1 large all-purpose potato [8 ounces, peeled and cut into
1/4-inch [6mm] cubes
Buckwheat Noodles (recipe follows)
1 stick unsalted butter [4 ounces, 1 110g]
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Food Processor
Drop the Parmesan through the feed tube of a food processor with the metal
blade in place and the motor running. Process until finely chopped, about 1
minute. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Process the Gruyere and fontina until
finely chopped, about 30 seconds. Toss with the Parmesan and set aside.
Drop the garlic and the sage through the feed tube with the motor
running and process until finely chopped, about 10 seconds. Reserve.
Bring the water to the boil in a large sauce pot. Add the spinach and
potatoes and simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are just tender, about 3
minutes. Stir in the buckwheat noodles and cook until just tender. (If
freshly made, the noodles will take 45 to 60 seconds to cook. If made in
advance, they will take 2 to 3 minutes.)
While the noodles are cooking, melt the butter, add the garlic-sage mixture
and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Drain the vegetables and noodles and
transfer them to a deep serving bowl. Toss with the warm garlic-sage
butter. Add the cheese mixture and toss until the cheeses begin to melt.
Season to taste and serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings
Buckwheat Noodles
1 cup all-purpose flour [5 ounces, 140g]
1 cup buckwheat flour [5 ounces, 140g]
Pinch salt
1 large egg
1/3 cup water [80ml]
Cornmeal
Food Processor
Put the flours and salt in the work bowl with the metal blade in place.
Stir the egg and water together in a 1-cup [240ml] liquid measure. With the
motor running, pour the liquid through the feed tube. Process until the
dough forms a ball, then process 20 seconds longer to knead it.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface, cover and let rest for 30
minutes. Divide the dough into 6 portions. If you are using a hand cranked
or electric pasta machine, roll each piece of dough, beginning with the
widest setting, down through the number 3 setting (or 1/16-inch [1.5mm]
thick). Cut into 21/2 by 1-inch [7.5 by 2.5cm rectangles. Sprinkle with
cornmeal and place on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. The
dough can also be rolled by hand, on a lightly floured surface, into long
rectangles no thicker than 1/16-inch [1.5mm] thick.
The uncooked noodles will keep, refrigerated, for 2 to 3 days in a plastic
bag, or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serves 5
Ravioli di Trota - Trout Ravioli (Varese)
This is a Lombard dish, drawn from Alessandro Pradelli's La Cucina Lombarda.
the pasta:
5 cups flour
4 eggs
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt
the filling:
The fillets of 3 trout (you can also use other fish if need be)
2/3 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon minced parsley
The juice of a lemon
2/3 cup dry white wine
Salt & Freshly ground pepper to taste
the sauce:
2/3 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced parsley
3 ripe tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded, and broken up (by hand)
An anchovy fillet, boned and shredded
1 teaspoon each (or to taste) minced fresh thyme
and marjoram (or 1/2 teaspoon each dried)
1/3 cup cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Begin by preparing the pasta (you can also purchase 1 1/4 pounds of freshly
made pasta). When it's ready cover it with a moist cloth and let it sit for
at least an hour.
Meanwhile, sauté the trout fillets in the oil, together with the parsley
and the lemon juice, seasoning the mixture to taste. Assuming they're a
half-inch thick the fillets should be done in about 5 minutes (turn them
once); sprinkle them with the wine, let the liquid
evaporate for a few minutes, then put everything through a wire strainer.
Divide the pasta into two equal portions and roll one out to the thinness
of a dime. Dot the sheet with balls of filling at 1 1/2-inch intervals.
Roll out the second sheet to the same size as the first, tap the sheet down
so it sticks well to the one underneath, and cut the
ravioli free with a serrated pastry wheel. Transfer the ravioli to a
well-floured surface while you prepare the sauce and bring the pasta water
to a boil.
Mince the clove of garlic and sauté it with the anchovy filet, parsley, and
tomatoes. After a few minutes season the sauce with the marjoram and thyme,
and salt & pepper to taste. Cook for a couple more minutes, then stir in
the cream and reduce the heat to a bare simmer. In
the meantime salt the pasta water and cook the ravioli for a couple of
minutes, then carefully drain them, season them with the sauce, and serve.
Polenta Concia - Polenta with Butter and Fontina and Polenta Taragna (Milano)
13 ozs. yellow, coarsely ground polenta
8 oz. fresh butter
13 ozs. Fontina cheese
Prepare a polenta following the basic procedure.
While the polenta is cooking, dice the cheese in small pieces. After the
polenta has cooked for half an hour, add the butter, cut in small pieces.
Five minutes before turning the heat off, blend in the cheese. Let sit
several minutes, turn it on a wooden board, cut with a wooden knife and
serve.
Polenta Taragna
Substituting 7 oz. of yellow with whole wheat polenta cornmeal and fontina
with bits of cheese you will have a specialty of the Valtellina region
called polenta taragna. Butter may be substituted with Parmigiano. The
whole wheat cornmeal is mixed into the water when it is still cold. It is
then brought to a boil and the yellow cornmeal is added following the
cooking process as in basic method. Polenta taragna is always served with
good salami, sliced thick by hand or fresh pork sausage sautéed till brown
This is one of my family's favorite dishes.
Polenta e Zola - Polenta with Gorgonzola (Milano)
Polenta is a remarkable foil for cheese of all kinds, but does especially
well with those that are somewhat sharp. Gorgonzola, for example.
1 pound corn meal for polenta
1 quart water
1 pint whole milk
3/4 pound Gorgonzola (sharp Gorgonzola, not sweet)
1/2 cup unsalted butter
Combine the milk and the water, bring them to a boil, and make the polenta.
Spoon the polenta into oven-proof pasta dishes. Put a large piece of
Gorgonzola on the top and put the dishes in a hot oven for 1 - 3 minutes.
Serve hot
Serves 6
RISOTTO
Alice's Risotto with Peppers (Pavia)
one yellow, one green, and one red pepper (or a different combination such
as one or two red peppers and chopped parsley)
1 cup of arborio rice
1 chicken bullion cube
1/2 yellow onion
a glass of white wine
some chopped garlic
Remove the skin of the peppers by charring them over the gas flame. When
they are charred, skin and clean out the seeds one at a time under running
water, squeeze them and place them on a cutting board. Chop them into
small pieces and put the pieces in a bowl. Chop one half an onion and some
garlic together and put into a bowl. Put one heaping cupful of rice in a
small bowl Put 2-1/2 cups of water on to boil and add the bullion cube.
Put half a stick of butter into a wide, shallow pan and heat it. Add the
onion/garlic mixture and stir for a minute. Then add the rice and stir
until the onion is translucent.
Add the broth one soup ladle at a time. When all the broth has been added,
put in the chopped peppers. Add the glass of white wine. Stir gently and
allow to cook without a top for about 20 minutes. Stay in the kitchen and
watch it. Just before you serve it, add freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Serve additional Parmesan at the table.
Serves 4 or 5
Riso con le rane (rîs e ran) - Rice with Frogs (Pavia)
300 gr of cleaned frogs
200 gr of rice
50 gr of butter
20 gr of parsley, chopped
one liter of hot beef broth
one onion, chopped
two sticks of celery, chopped
olive oil
Put the beef broth on to warm.
Chop an onion and two sticks of celery; put them into a large cooking pan.
Add the butter and two tablespoons of olive oil. Turn on the burner and
sauté' until the onion becomes translucent then add the clean frogs.
Continue cooking for 5 minutes and then
pour in the very hot beef broth. When it comes to a boil, add the rice and
cook it on a medium flame , stirring often. When it is ready, add the
finely chopped parsley and serve.
You will have a kind of soup which is neither too wet nor too dry. Do not
serve Parmesan cheese with this
Serves 4
SECONDI PIATTI - SECOND COURSES
MEAT
Costolette alla Milanese - Milanese Cutlets (Milano)
6 veal cutlets (or turkey breast slices)
2 eggs beaten
bread crumbs
100 gr. / 4 oz butter
and a little seed oil for frying
This dish was first served by the noble Melzi d'Eril family to General
Radetzky, then commander of the Austrian troops in Northern Italy. He was
so enthusiastic that he gave the recipe to the chefs at the imperial court
of the Hapsburgs, advising them to use pork so as not to make the copy too
evident.
Beat two eggs in a bowl and season with salt. Put lots of bread crumbs in a
dish. Take a cutlet, pass it first in the egg and then place it on the
bread crumbs on both sides so they stick well all over. Melt the butter
with some oil in a frying pan and when it starts sputtering lower the
cutlets and cook at low heat, turning them over carefully until they are
golden brown. Serve decorated with lemon slices and serve with fried
potatoes.
Osso Bucco con Gremolata - Ossobucco with Gremolata (Milano)
4 pcs. cross-cut veal shank
4 cups of beef broth
flour
peel of 1/2 lemon
2 oz. butter
1 clove garlic
4 oz. white wine
1 sprig rosemary
pinch of nutmeg
parsley (1 sprig)
salt, pepper
Dust the veal shanks with flour and brown them in hot melted butter in a
fry pan. When browned, Variation: After having browned the veal shanks, add
about 1/2 lb. Of ripe, peeled, seeded, chopped tomatoes with some chopped
celery and carrots. Then continue with the recipe. Note: The best part of
this famous Lombardian dish is the marrow of the bones which is removed
with a utensil called scavino, in Milanese slang known as the tax man (see
glossary).Splash the meat with white wine, let evaporate, salt and pepper
to taste, and add a pinch of nutmeg. Braise over low heat, adding broth
occasionally until the meat begins to come away from the bone (about 2
hours). To prepare the gremolata: Chop very finely the lemon rind,
garlic, rosemary and parsley and sprinkle over the veal, when almost ready.
Cook for another few minutes and serve. Ossobuco may be served with
risotto, with saffron (see recipe in Alice's Risotto Primer)
Vitello Tonnato
Vitello tonnato is one of the classic summer dishes, and is also the
traditional centerpiece of the Ferragosto dinner in Milano (Ascension Day,
August 16).
2 1/4 pounds boned veal, cut from the rump.
3/4 pounds tuna packed in oil
3 eggs
6 salted anchovies (the canned variety, sold by delicatessens)
A handful of pickled capers
1/2 cup (approx.) olive oil
1 tablespoon white vinegar
A bottle of dry white wine
The juice of a lemon
A rib of celery, thinly sliced crosswise
A few leaves of sage
2 bay leaves
3 cloves (some people omit these)
Salt
A few more perfect capers
some lemon slices,
and sprigs of parsley for garnishing
Put the meat in a bowl with the bay leaves, cloves, sage and celery, and
pour the wine over it. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours,
turning the meat occasionally. The next day place the meat in a Dutch oven.
Strain the wine and add it to the meat, then add enough water to cover.
Lightly salt the pot and simmer the meat for an hour. In the meantime,
wash, scale and bone the anchovies. When the hour is up add them to the pot
and continue boiling for another half hour; the liquid should be reduced
by half.
Hard boil the eggs, run them under cold water, peel them, and extract the
yolks (you can discard or fill the whites as you prefer). Rinse, squeeze
dry, and mince the capers. When the meat is fork-tender remove it from the
pot and strain the broth into a bowl. Transfer the fish filets to a clean
strainer and press them through it, together with the tuna and the yolks,
into another bowl. Stir in the minced capers, the vinegar, the lemon juice
and the olive oil, and then dilute the sauce to your taste with some of the
reserved broth.
When the veal has cooled slice it finely and lay the slices out on one or
more platters (you want just one layer). Spread the sauce over the meat,
garnish the platters with the lemon slices, capers and parsley. Cover them
with plastic wrap and chill them in the refrigerator before serving.
Source: about.com Italian Food
FISH
Trout is abundant in Lombardy's lakes and streams. Here are two quick
recipes. Please note that fish is always served with the head on.
Trota Salmonata con Finnochi - Salmon Trout with Fennel
3 salmon trout of about 1/2 K. / 1 lb
3 fennels cut into fine slices
juice of two lemons
1/4 pint extra virgin olive
oil
salt & pepper
Clean and rinse the trouts. Grease a large oven dish with the oil and place
the trout in the dish, season with salt and pepper and put the fennel over
each trout. Season again and pour the lemon juice on top. Cover the dish
tightly with foil and cook for 15 minutes in a preheated oven at
200°C/375°F/6G.
The poaching liquids in the following recipe may change according to the
cook's skill and ingenuity.
Trota in Bleu - Quick Poached Trout
4 trout
20-24 oz. each cup white vinegar
4 Tbs. butter
juice of 1 1emon
1 Tbs. parsley, chopped
salt to taste
Trout should be fresh gutted and cleaned. Using a fish poacher, add 4 qt.
vinegar based poaching liquid . Bring it to a simmer and pour the vinegar
over the trout. Let it marinate for 5 minutes. Then, place fish (without
the vinegar) in a poacher with simmering broth and cook till done. Cooking
time will depend on the size of the trout. It should take no more than 10
minutes. Remove from water and serve one trout per person with steamed
vegetable, with the sauce made with the browned butter and lemon.
Serves 4
VERDURE - VEGETABLES
Asparagi Lombardi - Lombardy Asparagus (Pavia)
Here is my late husband, Vittorio's recipe. This makes a delicious supper
preceded by a light soup or followed by cheese and fruit.
1 lb of asparagus
1 or two eggs per person
oil for frying
Parmesan Cheese
Wash the asparagus and cut off the woody part of the stem. Lightly steam
the asparagus so it retains its color. Fry the eggs lightly so that the
yokes remain liquid. Put the eggs and asparagus on plates. Add some
Parmesan cheese to the egg yolks.
Dip the asparagus tips into the egg and eat it.
Serves 2
Tortino di Verdure - Vegetable Torte (Milano)
A popular take-away item in Milan.
2 ounces Parmesan cheese [55g], cut into 1-inch [2.5cm] pieces
10 ounces Swiss cheese [280g], cut into 1-inch [2.5cm] pieces, chilled
6 medium zucchini [about 2 pounds total, 900g], trimmed and cut to fit the
feed tube vertically
12 medium carrots [about 2 pounds total, 900g], peeled and trimmed
1 large fennel bulb [about 3/4 pound, 340g], trimmed and quartered
1 stick unsalted butter [4 ounces, 1 110g], cut into 8 pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Drop the Parmesan through the feed tube of a food processor with the metal
blade in place and the motor running. Process until finely chopped, about
45 seconds. Reserve. Finely chop the Swiss in the same manner. Reserve.
Slice the zucchini with the thin [2 mm] slicing disc. Reserve.
Cut half the carrots into lengths to fit the feed tube horizontally and
shred them with the medium shredding disc. Reserve.
Cut the remaining carrots to fit the feed tube vertically and slice them
with the ultra-thin [1 mm] slicing disc. Reserve.
Slice the fennel bulb with the ultra-thin [1 mm] slicing disc.Spread 1 cup
[about 4 ounces, 1 110g] of the sliced zucchini on a baking sheet lined
with paper towels. Cover the slices with another layer of paper towels. Set
aside.
Cook the remaining zucchini in salted boiling water for 1 minute. Remove
with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Cook the remaining vegetables separately in the same water: the sliced
carrots for 1 minute; the shredded carrots for 1 minute; the sliced fennel
for 5 minutes. Remove each vegetable with the slotted spoon and drain
separately on paper towels.
Sauté the blanched zucchini in 2 tablespoons melted butter for 1 minute.
Set aside.
Sauté the sliced carrots, shredded carrots and fennel separately; 1 minute
for each carrot batch, 2 minutes for the fennel, adding butter as
necessary.
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. [190ºC.].To assemble the torte, butter a 21/2
quart [2.5L] ovenproof glass or ceramic bowl. Line the inside of the bowl
with a single layer of the raw, sliced zucchini. Layer the vegetables and
cheeses in the following order :
half the shredded carrots,
one-eighth of each cheese, salt and pepper
half the sautéed zucchini,
one-eighth of each cheese, salt and pepper
half the sliced carrots,
one-eighth of each cheese, salt and pepper
half the sliced fennel,
one-eighth of each cheese, salt and pepper
Repeat the layering with the remaining ingredients .Cover tightly with
aluminum foil. Put the bowl in a large roasting pan. Put the pan in the
center of the preheated oven and pour in enough boiling water to come
halfway up the side of the bowl. Bake for 1 hour. Remove the torte from the
oven and cool for 15 minutes. Invert the bowl over a serving platter and
unmold. Reposition any zucchini slices that may have adhered to the bowl.
Serve immediately.
Serves 8
DOLCI
Frittelle alla Pavese (farsò) - Pavese Fritters (Pavia)
200 gr of white flour
50 grams of raisins
3 eggs
1/5 of a liter of milk
sugar
salt
lard or oil for frying
Put the raisins in lukewarm water for a maximum of 15 minutes to soften them.
Put the flour in a bowl and add cold milk slowly, stirring with a wooden
spoon until the pasta becomes fairly dense. Add a pinch of salt, the
raisins drained and dried, and the whole eggs. Fold everything together.
Fry the mixture , one tablespoon at a time. Let fritters cook on moderate
heat until they are all a golden blond color. Put them into the sugar,
and then on a plate and serve them hot immediately.
Mele Fritte - Lombardy Apple Fritters
7 oz) flour
1 egg
3 cooking apples
half a lemon
Quarter pint (150 ml) milk
Quarter pint (150 ml) water
2 oz vegetable oil
2 oz) granulated sugar
Salt
Sift flour, and pinch of salt into a bowl. Make well in center with
spoon, add eggs one at a time and beat Add in milk and water and mix.
Gradually add in the flour from the sides, to create a smooth fairly runny
batter Mix and leave to stand for 30 minutes
Grate lemon rind Peel quarter and core the apples, cut into thin slices
Add apple and lemon rind to the batter Heat oil in a frying pan, add some
batter and fry until pale amber color Drain in a paper towel, sprinkle
with sugar, serve immediately.
Torta Paradiso - Paradise Cake (Pavia)
1 1/2 cup butter
3/4 cup potato starch
zest of 1 lemon
8 egg yolks
3 egg whites, stiffly beaten
1 cup, 3 oz. confectioners' sugar
3/4 cup white flour
cornstarch
salt
Butter a deep cake pan (10" diameter) and coat with a small amount of
potato starch. Beat butter till creamy. Add the lemon zest. Add the egg
yolks one at a time, then the sugar, the flour, the sifted cornstarch and
pinch of salt. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Blend the
ingredients, stirring gently, and pour the mixture into cake pan. Bake at
350 F. for 40 minutes. Cool and sprinkle with powdered sugar before
serving. NOTE: It is best the day after baking. If wrapped in waxed
paper or aluminum foil and stored in a cool, dry place, it will keep for a
week; it should be heated for 5 minutes in a moderate oven to restore its
freshness before serving
Panna cotta - Cooked Cream
1/2 liter of mil,
1/2 liter of whipping cream
50 gr of sugar
0ne vanilla pod
the zest of one organic lemon
4 leaves (12 gr) of animal gelatin or fish glue
a wooden spoon
molds
Wash the lemon and dry it. Remove only the yellow part of the peel.
Put into a small sauce pan the milk, vanilla bean, cream, sugar , gelatin
and lemon zest.
Turn the burner on low heat, mix constantly with a wooden spoon to
completely dissolve the gelatin. When it comes to a boil, leave it for one
minute and then pour the cooked cream through a gauze filter into a
container with a lip for pouring so that you can pour it easily into molds.
After it has been poured into the molds, cover the exposed part with
transparent plastic wrap and put them into the refrigerator for 24 hours.
The cooked cream is ready. Remove it from the molds and serve it with
chocolate sauce or strawberries.
Serves 6
