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the abbruzzese kitchen
Lavish, hearty and robust, even zesty at times, the cuisine of the
Abruzzi is also inventive and daring. The Abruzzesi relish a little hot
seasoning on occasion and even chili peppers sometimes find their way into the
list of ingredients. Saffron is another seasoning that makes an appearance on the
Abruzzi menu. The Abruzzi is Italy's principal source of saffron, with the
majority of it grown for export. Worth more than its weight in gold - it takes
approximately 130,000 flowers to produce just two pounds - saffron is used
respectfully and sparingly by judicious Abruzzese cooks. Nowhere in Italy is more closely identified with fine quality
pasta and pasta dishes. Maccheroni alla chitarra, macaroni served with a rich,
slightly piquant tomato sauce, flavored with peppers, bacon and Pecorino
cheese, is its most celebrated regional specialty. First courses First courses worthy of mention are the famous maccheroni alla
chitarra, and the scrippelle 'mbusse - thin pancakes sprinkled with sheep's
cheese and cinnamon and covered broth - and the renowned timballo. This is
based on pancakes, too, which are said to have been brought to Teramo by a
Breton sailor, a deserter from Napoleon's army, who settled down, happily
married in the town. The Primo Maggio (May Day), is a fateful date for the women of
Teramo who are busy in the long preparation of the virtu', the origins of which
have been lost in time. The "virt—" is an auspicious dish which
includes seven types of dry pulses (the end of the winter supplies), seven
types of fresh pulses and seven types vegetables (fresh produce), seven types
of meat, seven shapes of pasta, seven seasonings, and seven hours cooking time.
On May Day in Teramo, apart from in the restaurants, it is possible to eat the
virtu' in the street, offered by numerous vendors. The number seven turns up in the traditional panarda of L'Aquila,
a sumptuous banquet at which the participants are not allowed to say
"no" to the seven types of dishes.
The panarda can have as many as 30 courses and lasts from noon until
well into the night. Meat The Abruzzo cuisine is simple, and has, as a common factor, the
natural products of the various areas. Inland, kids, lambs and sheep reared on
the pastures in the high mountains, take first place. Lamb holds the leading
role as "the main course" thanks to its particularly tasty, tender
meat; it is cooked in different ways according to the traditions of the
different localities. Other meat dishes include figs and ham, potatoes filled
with sausage and ham and sheep's cheese Fish Specialties The regional maritime gastronomy reaches its best in the
preparation of brodetto (fish soup), various kinds of fish cooked in an
earthenware dish in Giulianova and Vasto. The scapece is a characteristic dish of Vasto; it is a fish dish
with no bones preserved in vinegar with plentyof saffron which gives it a
yellow color. Vegetable and Vegetarian Dishes Asparagus omelette, peppers, tomatoes with rice, artichokes broken
up and stuffed, halved and stuffed eggplant, eggplant with Parmesan cheese,
roasted mushrooms, potatoes cooked under the cinders in the hearth Cheeses Cheeses and products from sheep and goat's milk Local sheep's cheese, mature or fresh (mountainous area). Roman sheep's cheese, lengthy
maturing, strong taste (L'Aquila mountain area). Ricotta (cottage cheese)
and cacio marcetto (rotten), (mountainous area). Goat's
cheeses with a shorter maturing time, are usually eaten
fresh and can be found where there are the goat breeding farms on the east side
of the Majella (Fara S. Martino, Pennapiedimonte) and in the upper Vasto. Cow's cheese Caciecavalle, caciocavallo
(strong cheese from Southern Italy) (Pescocostanzo, National
Park, Roccaraso, Rivisondoli, etc.). Mozzarelle (Rivisondoli,
Majella, from Teramo and Lanciano, L'Aquila and surroundings). Mozzarelle weathered (Lanciano, L'Aquila
and surroundings). Giuncatina (junket) or
"Quaijate", fresh cheese, hardly curdled with or without salt. Typical traditional cakes Ferratelle (L'Aquila), Neole
(Chieti), Pizzelle (Pescara), sweetwafers made from egg, flour, white wine,
sugar, and anise seed formed with a rectangular or round mould made red-hot
in the fireplace. Nevole (Ortona,
Chieti), round wafers rolled into cones made with a round iron (Pizzelle). which
must baked according to the old Italic and Roman tradition. Bocconotti, loaves of puff
pastry filled with cocoa and candied fruit (a speciality of Lanciano and
Palena-Ch). Castagnaccio (chestnut cake)
(Teramo and L'Aquila provinces). Cellucci, typical cakes
of marmalade for the Abbot S. Antonio's Day in the Teramo area. Tarallucci, typical cakes
for the Abbot S. Antonio's Day in the Pescara and Chieti area. ANTIPASTO - APPETIZERS Crostini di Carciofi e
Tonno - Artichoke Hearts and Tuna Fish Crostini 6 artichokes 6 slices of toasted bread 200 gr. of tuna fish in olive oil 2 celery stalks 1/2 kilo string beans ( french beans
) Wash the artichokes well, take off the
hard leaves leaving practically only the hearts and boil them. String the
beans, wash them well and boil them. Put the artichokes, the beans, the celery
cut finely, and a pinch of salt into a food processor and blend well. The cream
obtained should then be spread on the slices of toasted bread. Antipasto di Melanzaane
Ripiene - Stuffed Eggplant 4 small eggplants 6tbsp vegetable oil 3 clofes garlic 6 anchovies 1tsp chopped parsley 1tsp small capers 2 tbsp corsly chopped black olives 1 tsp oregano 1 cup fresh bread crumbs hot pepper (optional) 8 tomatoes sliced thin Wash and cut eggplants lengthwise in
half. Scoop out pulp, leaving 1/2 in
shell. Chop pulp fine. Heat 2
tablespoons oil, add pulp, cook, stirring about 1 minute. Chop garlic, anchovies and parsley together
add eggplant pul;. Add capers, olives oregano, bread crumbs, pepper, 3
tablespoons oil. Stir to blend.. Fill eggplant shells with mixture. Top each shell with thin, slightly
overlapping tomato slices. Dribble
remaining oil over tomatoes. Place
stuffed piping hot and bubbling in 350 degree oven. Serves 8 Prawns, apples and
celery 600 gr. prawns 200 gr. celery 1 Granny Smith apple 100 gr. "Citronette" sauce
(oil,lemon and salt) 1 bouquet of lettuce Cook the prawns, clean them, slice the
celery and apple. Place them on a plate with a bouquet of lettuce. Dress with
the sauce. Serves 4 FIRST COURSES MINESTRA Minestrone of Calendimaggio 50 g./2 oz. dry broad beans 50 g./2 oz. white and green beans 50 g./2 oz. lentils 50 g./2 oz. chickpeas 50 g./2 oz. peas 50 g./2 oz. chickling (very savoury of
ancient tradition now adapted to Mediterranean cuisine) 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil - fresh
parsley seasoning Soak the legumes in water for 24 hours
(the broad beans for longer than the lentils). Rinse, drain and cook
separately. When almost cooked, combine in a single casserole dish, add cooking
stock, season and pour all the root vegetables in, washed and cut into pieces.
Cook for 15-20 minutes over a high flame without a lid. Pour into individual
bowls and dress with oil and chopped parsley. *Typical example of traditional
folk dish, where the old goes out (dry legumes) and the new comes in (root
vegetables). The recipe is a result of a fable that has the number seven as its magical number: in
fact seven virtuous maidens contributed to bringing the seven dry and fresh
ingredients to prepare the soup. Serves 7 PASTA Tagliolini con Scampi -
Tagliolini Pasta with Scampi 300 gr. of tagliolini (dried
egg-noodles) 80 gr. extra virgin olive oil 1 clove of red garlic 1 kg. scampi 1 small glass of brandy 1 teaspoon curry 2 sachets of saffron 1/2 bitter almond (Navelli) 50 gr. parmesan cheese salt Saute' the garlic in the oil, add the
scampi. Flame with the brandy and curry, add the saffron chopped almond and
parsley. Cook the pasta, mix with the sauce and sprinkle with the cheese. Serves 2 Spaghetti alla
Chitarra 1/4 c Olive Oil 2 1/2 tb Butter 8 ea Medium Mushrooms, sliced 4 ea Cloves of garlic, minced 1 d Crushed Chili Peppers 2 ts Powdered Oregano 1 1/2 lb Fresh Chitarra Pasta On medium heat, in a small, heavy skillet,
heat two tablespoons of olive oil
and add one tablespoon of butter. When the butter is melted, add sliced
mushrooms. Saute for about two minutes or just until mushrooms lose their
crispiness. Drain and set aside. In a large skillet, put the remainder of the
olive oil and butter. Add garlic and stir on medium heat for about two minutes.
Add mushrooms, crushed chilies and oregano and saute for about 20 seconds. Add
cooked pasta, salt and pepper to taste and toss all together until well mixed.
Serve hot, sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 7
Vermicielli al Sugo di
Zafferano - Vermicelli (thin spaghetti) in saffron sauce 500 gr. Vermicelli 1 onion 1/4 lb of zucchini flowers 3 fresh sausages stock extra virgin olive oil saffron 1 egg parsley, salt and pepper grated sheep's milk cheese tomato puree Gently fry the chopped onion, zucchini
flowers and parsley in the oil; add the saffron dissolved in the stock with
salt and pepper; simmer for 15 minutes. Cook the sausages in a little water,
add the puree and some stock if necessary, cook the Vermicelli "al
dente" (rare done), mix well with the sieved sauce, plenty of cheese and
the egg yolk over a high flame. Decorate with the sausages and their sauce on
top. Serves 4 LA CARNE - MEAT Agnello all'Aceto
Balsamico - Lamb with Balsamic Vinegar 12 lamb chops (6 slices of leg of lamb, 150 gr.
each) 200 gr. of extra virgin olive oil 3 cloves of garlic 18 black olives 1/2 onion medium sized rosemary 50 gr. balsamic vinegar a little flour salt 3 lampagioni (bitter bulbs of tassel
hyacinth) light chopped Flour and salt the chops and fry in oil.
When they are half cooked add the garlic, whole (without taking off the skin)
and crushed, the stoned olives, the chopped lampagioni and finely sliced onion,
after a few minutes add the rosemary. Higher the flame and wet with the
vinegar, turning the meat often so that the meat absorbs all the flavor. Serve,
when the vinegar has evaporated, with pickled onions, buttered carrots or
steamed potates. Serves 7 Capretto alla Semplice -
Simple Goat 1500 gr. goat 1 onion rosemary extra virgin olive oil salt Cut the goat into pieces. Place in a
greased oven dish with the chopped onion and some rosemary, salt and lots of
pepper. Put in a low oven and cook very slowly. (325F for about 2 hours) Serves 7 Rotolo Ripieno di Manzo
alla Frentana - Beef roll "Frentana" 1 large slice (900 gr.) of beef, well
pounded 6 celery stalks 6 slices of bacon (180 gr.) 3 carrots black pepper 120 gr. extra virgin olive oil 100 gr. white wine 1/2 lemon sqeezed 1 grated orange rind 1.500 kg peeled tomatoes 200 gr. dry red wine salt Salt and pepper the slice of beef place
the bacon, celery, chopped carrots and roll it up. Seal the beef roll over a
high flame. Pour on the wine. Add the lemon, grated orange rind and the
tomatoes, squashed with a fork. Cook for a few hours and serve sliced with
potato puree or polenta. Serves 5 POLLO - CHICKEN Coscie di Pollo Ripieni
Abruzzeze - Stuffed Chicken Thighs 6 chicken thighs (de-boned) 6 tsp. freshly chopped prsley 1 clove grlic, finely chopped 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tsp oregano leaves 2 tbsp seasoned bread crumbs 1 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese vegetable oil butter, one stick melted juice of two lemons Place all ingredients in a bowl except the
chicken thighs. Mix well. Pour enough vegetable oil over the mixture
to moisten. Fill each thigh with the mixture and close the thigh with a
toothpick. Arrange the thighs side by
side in a baking dish and pour melted butter over them. Bake uncovered at 350
degrees f for about one hour or until golden brown. Just before serving, squeeze fresh lemon juice over the
thighs. PESCE - FISH Aragosta Lanciano -
Lobster "Lanciano" style 6 lobsters 30 gr. pickles 30 gr. white olives 30 gr. capers salt 200 gr. melted butter 80 gr. of cognac parsley 1/2 clove of garlic a ladle of blended peeled tomatoes a few tablespoons of bread crumbs Chop the pickles, olives and capers. Put
the mixture into a pan with the melted butter, add the cognac, the blended
peeled tomatoes and the bread crumbs. Mix well; place the lobsters in a baking
tray, pour the mixture on top and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. Serve with
lettuce and lemon quarters. Serves 10 Pesce Spada Ruberti -
Swordfish great chef "Ruberti" 900 gr. (6 slices) of sword fish, each a
half cm. thick 50 gr. peeled tomatoes 3 cloves of garlic 1/2 red hot chili 40 gr. salted capers 150 gr. extra virgin olive oil 5 or 6 green olives 20 gr. pine-nuts 25 gr. raisens a little flour Soak the raisens in water for about 20
minutes. Flour the slices of fish and fry them. Saute' the garlic with the
crushed chili pepper, add the chopped tomatoes, the olives, the pine nuts, 1
bay leaf, the capers and the sultanas and boil for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the
slices of fish to the sauce and cook slowly for 8 to 10 minutes. Serves 4 Zuppa di Pesce Mamma
Angelina - Fish Soup "Mamma Angelina" 6 "mazzolini" 150 gr. each
(local fish for stew) 6 medium sized red mullet 6 small cuttlefish 6 scorpions fish, not very large 6 scampi medium size 6 razor fish 12 large mussels 200 gr. cockles 6 small cod fish 1 fresh pepper 2 cloves of garlic 1/2 onion 1 stalk of celery 4 bay leaves parsley salt 1 kg. tomatoes 150 gr. extra virgin olive oil 12 slices of toasted bread In a very wide pan (40 cm diameter) put
the oil, the sliced pepper and celery, garlic and onion, bay leaf, chopped
parsley, peeled and seeded tomatoes and the cleaned cuttlefish, salt and cook
on a high flame for about 10 minutes. Add the other fish according to their
cooking time: the "mazzolini", after 4 minutes the scorpion fish the
razor fish, the scampi, the mussels, the cockles and in thr end the red mullet
and cod fih. Make sure that all the fish are covered by the tomato. Cover the
pan and cook for 5 minutes. Place a slice of toasted bread in a bowl and put
the fish stew on top. VERDURA E PIATTI VEGETARIANI / VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN PLATES Ciambotta Abruzzeze -
Vegetable Stew Ingredients: 1 small eggplant 1 cup small zucchini 2 - 3 stalks of celery 1 or 2 small potatoes 1 medium onion 1 green pepper 1 fresh tomato 1 clove of garlic, chopped Cut all the ingredients,except the garlic
and saute in a frying pan with 1/3 cup of vegetable oil and the chopped
garlic. Simmer until l all the
vegetables are tender. Then serve them
in a platter. Serves 2 La Ghiotta - Vegetable
Casserole Abruzzeze 10 oz peppers 1lb, 2 oz tomatoes 10 oz zucchini 10 oz onions 2 lb 4 oz potatoes 1/2 cup oil some thyme branches 1 cup of chicken or vegetable broth salt and pepper Clean and slice the tomatoes, zucchini,
onions, and peppers. Boil the potatoes
and cook them until tender. When cool,
remove skins and slice them like the other vegetables. In a casserole dish,
preferably oval shaped, place alternate layers of potatoes with the tomatoes,
onions and zucchini until you use all of the vegetables. In between layers, salt and pepper the
vegetales to taste and sprinkle some chopped thyme. At the end, pour the oil
over all the dish, then the cup of broth.
Bake for about 45 minutes in the oven at 350 degrees until golden brown. VEGETABLE SIDE DISH Zucchine Gialle - Yellow Zucchini 4 kg. yellow zucchini 12 dried red peppers 200 gr. extra virgin olive oil 3 cloves of red garlic Peel and seed the zucchine and cut into
quite large pieces. Fry the peppers in a wide pan, cool them and grind them in
a mortar. Brown the garlic in the same oil, add the peppers and then the
zucchine simmer gently for an hour. Serves 6 DOLCI - SWEETS Pizza cake
"Ileana" 500 gr. genoise sponge - see recipe below 50 gr. powdered sugar 50 gr. candied cherries 50 gr. bitter chocolate 65 gr. milk chocolate 500 gr. whipped cream 120 gr. Aurum 120 gr. milk 50 gr. sugar Slice the sponge, not very thinly, and
line a deep, 15 cm wide dish. Wet the sponge with half of the aurum. Cut the
cherries and the milk chocolate add the cream and mix all gently. Pour half of
this mixture onto the sponge in the dish. Heat the milk and add the bitter
chocolate cook slowly. Cool, add the remaining cream and pour onto the sponge
cover with slices of sponge which have been flavoured with aurum. Put in the
freezer until it is frozen. Pan Di Spagna - Basic
Genoise (sponge Cake) 5 Eggs 2 Egg yolks 6 1/2 oz Sugar 1 t Vanilla 6 1/2 oz Cake flour 1/4 ts Cornstarch Salt; a pinch Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 1. Blend the
eggs, egg yolks, and sugar in a mixer bowl with a wire whip attachment until
the mixture doubles in volume-about 15 minutes on high speed. Just before
stopping the mixer, add the vanilla and mix in. Sift together the cake flour,
cornstarch and salt. fold dry mixture into egg mixture with a wooden spoon or
rubber spatula, just until blended.
Coat two 10-inch round cake pans with shortening. Pour the batter into
the pans and put them immediately into a preheated 350 degree oven. Bake until
tops are springy to the touch, about 45-50 minutes. Remove the cakes from the pans and cool on a wire rack. When
cool, use a long serrated knife to slice off the tops of the cakes. For tirami
su or other layer cakes, divide each cake into three uniform layers with a
serrated knife. Makes two cakes. Serves 6 Pineapple
"Simona" 6 slices of fresh pineapple 50 gr. of Aurum or Grand Marnier 50 gr. of brandy 50 gr. of Kirsch the juice of 3 oranges 50 gr. butter 100 gr. sugar vanilla essence 1 lemon 1 grapefruit Put the sugar into a pan with a drop of
water to makee a caramel. Melt the butter, flame it with the brandy, add the
juice of the lemon, orange and grapefruit, together with the vanilla. Boil
everything again until the caramel melts, pour in the cointreau, the kirsch and
put in the slices of pineapple. Cook for 15 minutes and serve on hot plates. Serves 6
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