a tavola - the cuisine of latium
(return to food)

The cuisine of Lazio is the cuisine of Rome. The cuisine of Rome per se does not exist. It is the rich and flavorful combination of the culinary traditions of the Latium Region.

see also... A Notch Above rthe Rest A Modern Bridge to Ancient Latium Cats of Rome Extreme Rome What do you know? Roman Cooking Visit Latium Visit other Italian regions

Spaghetti alla Carbonara, which is Roman, has a slightly mysterious past - it is from "somewhere" in Latium while the famous Bucatini all'Amatriciana actually come from Amatrice in Abruzzo.

The pasta dishes with humorous names are entertaining and abundant and always present in the trattorias of Transtevere in Rome. The second courses such as Saltimbocca alla Romana (jump into the mouth) are tied to the very antique popular traditions of the farmers in the surrounding countryside. The seafood is fresh and delicious. I have spent a lot of time in Rome shopping in the markets where the vegetables are beautiful and inexpensive. The artichokes are famous. They are globes without the spine at the end of the leaf so they are easier to work with. The Roman countryside furnishes not only great vegetables but good cheeses such as Pecorino.

It is delightful to shop for food, cook and eat in Rome.

ANTIPASTO

Pinzimonio - Roman Crudite's
This is a dish often served in Italian homes and restaurants. It consists of a bowl of fresh vegetables which are dipped in a mixture of olive oil, salt and pepper and occasionally red wine vinegar. Usually these are presented in separate bowls, though sometimes they are mixed to a kind of vinaigrette which is shared at the centre of the table. People dip a piece of celery or whatever into the bowl, nibble it and dip again. It may not be hygienic but it certainly does have a simple and rustic appeal.

1 head of celery, separated
1 head of fennel
6 carrots
1 bunch of radishes, preferably with their leaves on
1 medium cucumber
250ml/ 8fl oz virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon of salt
1 tablespoon of ground black pepper
2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
assorted leaves, to dress the serving dish

Trim the vegetables, separate the celery discarding any coarse outer stalks. Separate the fennel, splitting the larger "cups" in half. Wash the radishes, trimming off the root part but leaving a little bit of the green stalk attached. Split the cucumber lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, cut each canoe in half and then cut again lengthwise into six batons, giving 24 pieces altogether. Peel the carrots and cut those lengthwise into 4 or 5 strips depending on their width.

Arrange the vegetables in a sort of giant cartwheel on an oval or a round plate in the middle of which is a bowl with the olive oil. If you wish to stir the vinegar, salt and pepper into the oil to make a single dressing do so, if not serve those in smaller bowls around the edge for people to add to their dipping if they choose.

Serves 4 - 6.

Funghi Trifolati - Mushrooms with Garlic
This is a very simple dish often served as an antipasto in Rome and a vegetable in northern Italian cities. It is the only way I ever cook mushrooms. Traditionally they used porcini or ceps mushrooms, to give them their French name, but they're pretty difficult to find in this country unless you have a secret wood of your own, and when you find them in shops they're severely expensive. What makes an excellent substitute these days are the Japanese style shitake mushrooms which have the same sort of density and intensity of flavor and are widely available in supermarkets and vegetable stores.

250g of shitake mushrooms
1 tablespoon of olive oil
2 tablespoons of butter
1 clove of garlic
small bunch finely chopped parsley
salt and pepper

Run the mushrooms under very hot or boiling water in a colander, shaking them thoroughly. Trim the stalks and slice each mushroom into four pieces, unless it's very large in which case six would be more satisfactory.

Put the oil in a small pan into which the mushrooms will fit and melt the butter in that. Add the finely chopped garlic and then the mushroom slices. Cook very gently, stirring every now and again for about 10 minutes or so. They will give off a little juice and that should coat the mushrooms in the pan. Season at the end of cooking, not before. Serve with the chopped parsley.

Serves 4.

Pomodori con Riso - Tomatos with Rice
This is one of the most classic fillings for tomatoes; and will work well as either an antipasto or a side dish. It can be served either hot or cool. The recipe is from about.com Italian food and is drawn from Car�la Francesconi's La Cucina Napoletana. Note from Alice: I have modified it slightly.

12 round, large tomatoes
3/4 cup (150 g) rice, cooked which will be more than 3/4 of a cup 1 clove garlic
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano
Salt & pepper to taste
1 cup dry white wine
Fresh shredded basil or oregano

Wash and dry the tomatoes, then cut around their caps and scoop out the pulp with a spoon, being careful not to puncture the tomatoes. Do the scooping over a bowl so as to catch all the liquid that drips from the tomatoes as well, and when you have finished blend the pulp and juice. Then combine the blended tomato pulp with the remaining ingredients except the wine. Preheat your oven to 375 F (170 C).

Stuff the tomatoes with the filling without tamping down too hard, replace the caps, and put them in a lightly oiled oven proof dish. Pour the wine into the dish and bake the tomatoes until done, about 45 minutes. Serve either hot or cool.

Serves 6.

MINESTRE E ZUPPE - SOUPS

Stracciatella
From Cosa Bolle in Pentola, here is Livio Jannattoni's recipe, from La Cucina Romana e del Lazio:

About 2 quarts broth (Alice's note: I prefer chicken broth)
4 eggs
3-4 tablespoons semolina
3 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino
1 tablespoon very finely minced parsley (optional)
A pinch of freshly ground nutmeg (optional)

Eggs and broth -- hard to devise a better match! In the past custom dictated it be eaten at least once a week, but now its popularity has declined. However, it remains in the archives of authentic Roman cuisine, always ready to reemerge if needed.

In a bowl, combine the eggs, semolina, grated cheese, and, if you're using them, nutmeg and parsley. Add a ladle of cold broth and beat the mixture lightly with a fork or whisk.

Bring the remainder of the broth to a boil. Add the egg mixture in one fell swoop, stirring vigorously with a whisk or fork so as to break up the egg, which will form fine light flakes, minute rags (straccetti, in Italian) that give the soup its name. Simmer for another 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly, and serve, with a little more grated Pecorino on the side.

Serves 6.

Gnocchi alla Romana - Potato Dumplings Roman Style
Roman Gnocchi are available already made in the supermarket in Pavia packaged in a long tube. All we had to do was bake them. I miss that convenience in San Francisco.

250 grams of semolina
1 liter + 1/2 cup milk
100 grams of butter (1 stick)
3 egg yolks
Nutmeg
Salt and Pepper to taste
100 grams of Parmesan cheese

Boil 1 liter of milk in a large pan. While stirring, gradually put in semolina, salt, nutmeg, pepper and 3/4 stick of butter. Stir for 15 to 20 minutes. Mix the egg yolks with 1/2 cup of warm milk. Take the pan off the burner and add 2 tablespoons of Parmesan and eggs. Put cold water on the counter top and spread the semolina mixture out over it. It should be between 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick. Cut it into circular pieces and line them up in a greased pan. Add Parmesan and butter on top. Bake until golden at 450-500 degrees.

Serves 4.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara - Coal Shovelers' Spaghetti
Here are two recipes for this dish. The first one is the recipe of a Roman Soccer team. The second one is my own which I learned from a friend in Liguria which, I believe, is more commonly used.

Roman Soccer Team Recipe for Spaghetti alla Carbonara.
This is a famous dish in Rome where nearly every good restaurant offers it with pride. This dish, while very good, is very simple to make. This is one version which leaves out the egg and adds tomatoes and fresh Basil.

2 Small White Onions
1 Sweet Red Pepper (diced)
8 slices of bacon (diced)
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups of plum Italian tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped Fresh Basil Garlic
1 Pound of Spaghetti
1/2 Cup Pecorino

Prepare the sauce: Saut� the olive oil, onion, bacon and garlic until the bacon is well cooked. Add the plum Italian Tomatoes, basil, and sweet red pepper. Let simmer for about 1 hours. Make sure you add more water if needed.

Start a pot of boiling water. When the water begins to boil add the spaghetti. Do not over cook the spaghetti. Once the spaghetti is done, drain the spaghetti add the sauce and stir well. Top with plenty of Romano Cheese.

Serves 4 or 5.

Alice's Spaghetti alla Carbonara
1 lb of spaghetti
salt
heavy cream or plain yogurt
1/2 lb of pancetta (pancetta is not smoked) or bacon
2 eggs, uncooked
Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
Freshly grated black pepper
Nutmeg

Put pasta bowls in a warm oven. Put the water on to boil, add salt. In a frying pan, put about 6 slices of bacon or pancetta and cook slowly. Whisk the two eggs in a stainless steel or copper bowl. Add a pinch of nutmeg to the eggs. When the bacon or pancetta is crisp, remove it to a plate covered with a paper towel and squeeze it into small bits. Add cream to the bacon fat remaining in the pan and keep warm. When the spaghtetti is cooked, remove it to a collandar and drain; put it back in the pan used to boil it; add the eggs and mix (the eggs will cook on the spaghetti; add the Parmesan cheese and mix, add the bacon or pancetta fat and cream and mix. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese and grated black pepper.

Serves 4.

Schiaffi - Slaps (Roman Ravioli)
Here is a recipe from Rome for delicious large ravioli. Their name, translated, means "slaps"!

Schiaffi:
1-1/2 pounds Ricotta cheese
1/2 pound Cacio di Roma cheese, chopped in small pieces
1-1/2 ounces cooked prosciutto ham, finely chopped
1-1/2 ounces uncooked prosciutto ham, finely chopped
20 leaves of fresh spinach, boiled and finely chopped
2 eggs
1-1/2 ounces Genuine Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
pasta sheets for making ravioli

Mix the Ricotta, Cacio de' Roma and chopped spinach with both types of prosciutto and the Pecorino Romano cheese. Coat the ravioli pasta sheet with beatn egg until shiny. Cut a piece of pasta 3-1/2 inches long by 2-1/2 inches wide. Fill half of it with the cheese, spinach and meat mixture, then fold over the rest of the pasta and seal the edges tightly. Follow this procedure until all of the pasta has been used up. Boil water and add the schiaffi. Cook until they rise to the top. Serve with the sauce of your choice or with Tomato Cream Sauce.

Tomato Cream Sauce:
Cook one pound of peeled tomatoes to form the base of the sauce. Strain to remove the seeds. Add one pint of cooking cream and one and a half ounces of butter cut in pieces. Blend well and serve over the schiaffi.

Serves 6.

Strozzapretti alla Boscaiola - Strangled Priests with Mushrooms
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium red onion, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
1 stalk celery, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
1/2 pound crimini or portobello mushrooms, quartered
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked 10 minutes in warm water
1 cup basic tomato sauce, recipe follows
1 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped to yield 1/4 cup
Pecorino cheese

Make pasta. Roll out pasta to No. 4 setting, roughly 1/8 inch thick. Cut pasta sheets into 4 inch long pieces and fold each in half. Cut roll into strips 1/2 inch thick. Take each piece between hands and roll back and forth several times to form a twisted piece. Set aside.

Bring 6 quarts water to boil and add 2 tablespoons salt.
In a 12 to 14 inch sauce pan, heat olive oil, onion and celery over medium high heat until soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook until sweated, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add tomato sauce and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, drop pasta into boiling water and cook 1 minute until soft. Drain well and toss into pan with mushrooms. Cook until well coated. Add parsley, toss into warm platter and serve.

Serves 4.

CARNE - MEAT

AGNELLO - LAMB

Abbacchio al Forno alla Maniera di Rocca Priora - Roast Lamb or Kid Rocca Priora Style.
Abbacchio al Forno alla Maniera di Rocca Priora - Roast Lamb or Kid Rocca Priora Style.

Few dishes are quite as Roman as this. The recipe is drawn from Livio Jannattoni's La Cucina romana e del Lazio; he in turn got it from a friend living in Rocca Priora, a town near Rome. As you'll note, the recipe is quite free when it comes to proportions. Don't overdo it with either the wine or the garlic, and if you want, add a few baby potatoes, cubed, to the pan (when you turn the meat). My amounts are in square brackets.

Half of a lamb or kid, weighing 9-11 pounds (4-5 k), chopped into portion-size pieces
Take an oven-proof pan big enough to hold the meat and add to it several cloves of garlic [2-3] (punctured here and there with a fork)
Olive oil [1/3 cup]
Dry white wine [1/2 cup]
Rosemary [the leaves from a 6-inch sprig]
Salt and pepper

Mash everything down with the bottom of a glass, lay the pieces of lamb over it, cover the pan with aluminum foil, and set it to roast in a moderate (350 F, 175 C) oven. The roasting will require between 1 1/2 and 2 hours; about halfway through the process remove the foil, turn the meat, and replace the foil (you can also add cubed potatoes at this point if you want). When the meat is about 20 minutes shy of being done remove the foil and let it brown.
You can also check the meat for doneness with a fork -- it will come away from the bone when it is ready.

Serves 8 - 10.

Saltimbocca alla Romana - Saltimbocca (means Jump into the Mouth) Roman Style
This is easy, fun to make, flavorful and everyone will enjoy it.

500 gr. veal sliced
120 gr. di prosciutto crudo
50 gr. of butter
sage
pepper
salt
white wine

Cut the larger slices of veal into small protions and put a slice of prosciutto crudo over it in order to cover it completely. Put a sage leaf on top and fasten the whole thing with a wooden toothpick. In a large frying pan, melt the butter and fry the saltimbocca. When they are golden on both sides, add a pinch of salt, not quite a full glass of white wine and continue the cooking for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the saltimbocca from the pan and add 2 teaspoons of water to the juices in the pan and boil for about one minute. Pour the sauce over the saltimbocca and serve with a side dish of buttered peas.

Serves 4.

Baked Sardines with Roast Potatoes and Romaine lettuce salad
About 2 pounds of fresh sardines
1 pound of fresh tomatoes, chopped
Oregano
Fresh garlic, chopped
Olive oil
White potatoes
Romaine lettuce
1 lemon

Gut and clean fresh sardines. Layer them in a rectangular baking pan with chopped fresh tomato, oregano, garlic and olive oil, then bake them briefly. Bake roast potatoes to accompany them and serve a romaine salad, dressed with nothing but olive oil and lemon.

Serves 2.

Carciofi alla Giudea - Judas Artichokes
4 lg. artichokes (Roman Artichokes do not have the sharp spine on the leaves)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
2 lemons, cut in wedges

Pull off outer layers of deep green leaves from each artichoke and discard. Cut off stem and set aside. Rub each cut with a lemon wedge. Place artichoke on its side and cut off top third. Discard these points. Using a pair of scissors, cut off the sharp points. Soak 10 minutes in cold water with 1 ounce lemon juice.

Carefully open the leaves by prying with your fingers as if opening a flower and pressing down on the counter the opening face. Drain each artichoke on paper towels, shaking to remove all liquid. Season aggressively with salt and pepper between each leaf and all over.

Heat the virgin olive oil in a tall-sided saucepan, 8 to 10 inches wide at base, until just smoking. Cook artichokes in this hot oil 12 to 15 minutes, until golden all over. After 10 minutes of cooking, spritz the pan by shaking your wet hand over the artichokes to mist them. Be careful; this will cause the oil to sizzle and spatter.

When the artichokes are cooked, remove each one, and holding the artichoke by skewering its base with a fork, press the flower side down to force it further open. Drain on paper towels, season with salt and pepper again and serve with lemon wedges.

INSALATA

Puntarelle or radicchio rosso - Chicory Salad
Once you have washed, picked over, and shredded your puntarelle, grind one or more cloves of garlic in a mortar with a few rinsed, boned anchovies (ideally the kind packed in salt, though you can used canned anchovy filets packed in oil too). When the two are ground to a smooth paste work some good vinegar into the mixture to dilute it, and use the sauce thus obtained to dress your salad.

Note: If you cannot find this particular variety of chicory (which is light green in color, and has long thin serrated leaves) you could also use radicchio rosso. The chromatic effect will be different but the flavor will still be good.

Alice's Note: I used to grow Cicoria Bianca di Milano on my balcony in Pavia in the spring and summer. If you can find the seeds to grow it, It might lend itself also to this recipe.

DOLCI

Dolce di Formaggio Romano - Roman Cheesecake
Executive Chef Vittorio Saccone, the Excelsior Hotel, Rome, Italy.
Alice's Note: Ricotta cheese is not available in Italy in the summer so recipes made with it are not eaten in warm weather.

Italian ricotta cheese is less runny than what we have in America. In order to duplicate the Italian texture we blended farmer's cheese with ricotta cheese. To help set the cake, we also added a couple of tablespoonfuls of flour and an egg. I like the tang of the dried cherries, but the cake works as well with golden raisins.

To Make the dough:
21/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 pound unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon or more ice water
Flour for rolling the dough

For the filling:
1 carton (15 ounces) whole milk ricotta cheese
1 package (7.5 ounces) farmer's cheese
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup Romana Sambuca Liqueur
1/2 cup pine nuts, preferably toasted
1/4 cup finely diced candied orange peel
or other dried fruit
1 cup dried cherries, cranberries or golden raisins
Egg wash: 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon of milk
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar for garnish

To toast the pine nuts, set them in a 400� F. oven for about 10 minutes. Keep an eye on them; they turn from golden to burned in seconds.
You'll need a round cake pan, preferably with a loose bottom, 9 inches in diameter and 11/2 inches deep.

To make the dough:
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, salt and process until blended. Add the butter and process until broken into the flour. Add the eggs and ice water to the flour and process, by pulsing several times, until the dough comes together. If the dough seems dry, add another teaspoon or so of ice water. Turn the dough onto a board and gather it into a ball. Flatten the dough slightly, wrap it in waxed paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375� F.
Flour a pastry board and rolling pin. Remove 2/3's of the dough and roll it into a circle about 1/4-inch thick and 11 inches in diameter. Line the cake pan with the dough, pressing it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. If it breaks apart, don't worry, just press it back into shape. Roll the remaining 1/3 of dough into a circle about 3/8 -inch thick and 10 inches in diameter. Divide this circle into 10 strips, each about 1/2-inch wide; this will be for the lattice top.

For the filling:
In a food processor, combine the ricotta and farmer's cheese, sugar, flour, egg and Sambuca and process until smooth. Transfer the filling to a mixing bowl and fold in the pine nuts, candied orange peel and cherries, or golden raisins and transfer this to the dough-lined cake pan. Lay 5 strips of dough across the ricotta filling and set the other 5 strips across them, at a 45� angle, to form a lattice. With a pastry brush, paint the lattice top and edges with the egg wash. Set the cake pan on a baking pan and bake for 1 hour or until the filling has set and the crust is golden. Remove the cake and cool it thoroughly on a rack before unmolding. Right before serving, shake the confectioners' sugar through a sieve to completely coat the top.

Serves 10-12.